Thursday, December 31, 2009
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Monday, December 28, 2009
I completed my second pair of pants for the SAL. Nope, these are not the faux leather pants I started, but I really love them. I whipped these up over the holiday and I must say, I am feeling them. lol.
I used Butterick 4995 pattern in a size 12. Other than reducing the hem allowance to keep them from being too short, this worked straight from the pattern for me. I did version B. This was the reason for adding this to my pattern stash a year ago. I am so glad I finally got around to making it.
Click Here for the blog post on this project, along with the top.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
So I've been working with McCalls 5537 http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5537.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=3 and trying to refine the fit. I disassembled a pair of the TNT pants that had been damaged by a bike chain some years ago.
The Palmer/Pletsch instructions have been very helpful and I have also used the Zapp Method http://www.amazon.com/Zapp-Method-Couture-Sewing-Garments/dp/B002PJ4IU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942186&sr=8-1 as well as the http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Pants-Singer-Refernece-Library/dp/B000GZTIDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942265&sr=1-2 the Singer sewing book.
My TNT seemed to bring about a few changes in the McCalls pattern. I used the 26 and made the flat booty adjustment. There were already lines provided for this. The darts on the front were not necessary and my crotch depth was different.
Following all of these instructions, the first version that I cut out looks pretty good! I need to see if there's anything to be done about a couple wrinkles in the back, but basically I think the situation is good. And if I don't figure what to do about the wrinkles, they are so insignificant that they are not to be worried about. My theory is that this could be caused by the fact that my back crotch length was a good deal shorter than theirs. I cut for their length but seamed for mine. Opening up the seam and changing this will be my next try on how to fix those wrinkles.
Didn't bring my camera to Mom and Dad's house but will try to get a pic posted when I get one.
Friday, December 25, 2009
School's been out for a week and I finally have had some consistent time to devote to my second pair of pants for the sew along. I set some pretty ambitious goals at the beginning of the month, but have since realized that I don't have it in me to see them through right now. After viewing Rachelle's comments about Simplicity 2700 and studying some reviews, I decided to tackle the fit of this pattern. I figure that if I concentrate on making this one pattern work, I can make lots of versions and then, if I wanted to, transfer any alterations to other Amazing Fit pants designs.
Yesterday, I spent the grand part of the day making muslins. The first muslin was made from a curvy 16 straight out of the envelope. The fit was so-so and prompted me to make a few alterations:
- I removed 5 inches of length from the back in three paces (at and six inches above & below the lengthen/shorten line).
- I made an angled scoop of the back crotch curve using Rahcelle's method and slightly lowered the crotch point.
- I removed the same 5 inches of length from the front, except 1/2" of length was taken horizontally out of the pocket/zipper area. The pockets gaped open in the first muslin. The 1/2" reduction in length seems to have corrected this in the second muslin.
- I didn't make any alterations to the front crotch curve.
- I probably didn't need to do this, but I took out 1/2" length in the front yoke, pocket, and pocket lining just so that the dots and notches would match.
Have a great day everyone!
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Originally I committed to three pair of pants for the Month of Pants Sewalong. This my third pair. In my last post I wrote about the trials of picking loose all of the stitched and serged seams. Talk about thread everywhere! I even laid down a big beach towel to catch thread and afterward took it outside and shook it off. I think that work paid off though as you can see here in my third pair. Much, much better than pairs one and two thanks to Gwen. I have minimal wrinkling on the right side. I guess I must have marked the waistband area a little crooked on that side - thus the wrinkles there. I cut into my buttonhole at the waistband (dang), but all and all I don't think they are bad at all. Glad I finally get to say that! I have ALMOST reached total satisfaction! On my next pair I think I'll wait until I have help caulking the waist seam and I know the next pair will be even better. Having this good of result lets me know the technique really works. Sometimes even when I know the answer to fixing a problem I still can't figure out in my head exactly how it's going to work. It's always so nice when it actually works.
sewalong has been extended through January I plan on making 3 more pair that will, like this pair, have matching jackets eventually.
Above you can see the changes made to the back piece of the pattern.
And how the jeans pants look now:
The back after the adjustment:
What a difference! Almost no creases!Do you think this means I now have a perfect pants pattern? Hmmm...
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
I though I could live with the "little too short crouch", but was still unsatisfied with the wrinkles. While at work yesterday, I toyed with the idea of taking everything apart in order to restitch the crouch for a little more room (that would involve removing stitched seams and SERGER stitching in the inner leg and side seams). I decided that was too much work - I'd just deal with them and use Gwen's simple solution on the next pair. I was getting ready to attach the waistband AND GUESS WHAT I DISCOVERED??? I had sleep sewn and serged the wrong side of the pants back to the right side of the pants front! They were all sewn together including the center back seam. WILL SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME THAT THEY HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE?
This fabric is a nice quality light weight wool (unlike the last pair of pants I made) both from my New York shopping trip. So rather than chunk them in the dumpster out next to the street, I felt I had to try to rectify my sleep sewn mistake. I was up until 3 A.M. picking and pulling. My plan is to attempt re-cutting the crouch area, stitch and serge them back together with the seam allowance I have left, and make Gwen's adjustment (which is tying a piece of elastic at my waist over the pants, and just pulling them up until the wrinkles disappear, and them chalking a new stitching line around my waist. (long sentence, but I had to get that in there). Additionally, adding the seam allowance before stitching.
Gwen says she got this tip from Pants for Real People. I've started to buy that book before, but kept stalling. I went to two stores looking for it yesterday, and of course I couldn't find it. I'll get it from Amazon as soon as I can because I do need. THANKS GWEN! Now it's on with the show, I'll let you know how everything turns out...
Monday, December 21, 2009
See? Already looking better.
Well, it's not perfect since I pinned myself, but at least now I know what to do to alter the paper pattern. There are two great tutorials for flat seat adjustment here (Ann Rowley) and here (Debbie Cook) for removing excess fabric from the back legs.
Friday, December 18, 2009
I have completed my first pair of pants for the Month of Pants sew-a-long. I used Kwik Sew 3315 and it worked out nicely with my choice of fabric. I think I could have gone down to the small size, since it runs a bit big, but still find it comfy.
You can find my blog post here.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
I've got a few wrinkles across the front that I can't explain.
I plan to start another pair tomorrow to meet my commitment of 3 pair this month...
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Something going on with the crotch? What to do with that? Any ideas?
This fabric has a different (heavier) fall.
We shall see how the fabric behaves after some wearing. Right now I'm pleased and happy with them. Soo comfortable!
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Smoking Needles is on to something with her information on pants crouch adjustments to fit bottoms that are curvy.
Yet another pair of Vogue 8157: This pattern was my TNT pants pattern, but I recently realized that the fit needed work. I cut the 2" back crotch wedge down to 1" and lengthened the crotch point by 1", tapering to nothing just above the knee. I also added about 1/2" to the front crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee. I cut out the fashion fabric, and inserted the zipper.
Simplicity 4695: I made up the muslin this weekend as well. Here are a couple of pictures:
- The front fly area needs to be shortened about an inch. The pants are supposed to be worn 1.5" below the waist. For me, this means the fly is too long and creates an unsightly pouch.
- The back crotch length is a bit too short. When I sit, the pants pull down at the back. Melody suggested that I widen the yoke.
- The back has some wrinkles pointing to the inseam. I think I need about 1/2" in that area.
- The line drawing shows three buttons just below the knee, ending in a split to the hem. Melody and I both agreed that the shorter split is not a good look. What do you all think about the longer split? No split?
McCall's 3935: I have pictures of the muslin. There were many, many alterations to this one, boy.
- I shortened the overall length six inches. Honestly, who were these pants designed for, Shaquille O'Neal? I know I'm short and all, but damn!
- I shortened the front fly area 3/4" and the front crotch curve 1/2". I added 1/2" to the front crotch point, tapering to nothing at the knee to accommodate full inner thighs.
- I lengthened the back crotch curve 1" and added 1" to the back crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee.
- I removed 1/2" of width from waist to hem from the back so that the leg fullness isn't too overwhelming. I made the same alteration on the back waistband piece. Should I do the same on the front?
Monday, December 14, 2009
I just got accepted into the Month of Pants. I saw this on Faye's blog and knew I wanted in, too! For December, I have managed two shirts and one dress, so I'm ready to jump into pants making. I actually went on a small fabric shopping spree earlier this month and purchased enough material for 7 or more pairs! lol. Now is the time to make them. Last night I cut out my size for the Kwik Sew 3315 along with the fabric (stretch courderoy). This is my first time using a Kwik Sew pattern even though I have 2 older patterns of theirs in my stash already. Tonight - I sew!
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Saturday, December 12, 2009
What about you? What do you do when this happens?