Thursday, December 31, 2009

Update: Simplicity 2700

I finally have pictures of both the muslin and garment (near completion). There are some wrinkles in the front of the garment that I didn't see in the muslin. Any ideas?

Muslin Front

Garment Front
Muslin Back

Garment Back
Right Side
(Sorry for the photo quality. I have a love-hate relationship with Photoshop.)

L

MOT #1

My first pair of pant for the MOP sew along...I used Kwiksew 3625.

Please check my blog for the complete review of the pattern. The pant is a good fit except for the tightness around the hips and the thigh. I will adjust the fit on my next pair and see how it goes .

Here are some pictures...


If you look at the thigh very well , you can see what am talking about...Frustrating



More room here for sure....

You all have a wonderful holiday, and wish you all the best in the New year.....

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

More pants - easy


Some of y'all know that I have been working on some boxers to give to my friend. It's been, what, a year since I started them. But they have two legs and a crotch curve, so three at least have been finished. Dad is holding them up on the outside of his clothes. I thought I had brought four with me to be finished but I can only find three.
Also, when Mom saw all of the fabric I'd bought on this trip, she asked for a pair of pajama bottoms. I made two pair of pj bottoms for her. also added some pics to the TNT for her, and am about to cut a pair of dressy pants for myself (evening pants) on the dining room table.
Total pants completed: 17?

Monday, December 28, 2009

FO - Butterick 4995



I completed my second pair of pants for the SAL. Nope, these are not the faux leather pants I started, but I really love them. I whipped these up over the holiday and I must say, I am feeling them. lol.



I used Butterick 4995 pattern in a size 12. Other than reducing the hem allowance to keep them from being too short, this worked straight from the pattern for me. I did version B. This was the reason for adding this to my pattern stash a year ago. I am so glad I finally got around to making it.



Click Here for the blog post on this project, along with the top.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Fixing the TNT











I decided to get to work on fixing the TNT pants. You saw how unpleasant they looked before. Various pairs of the same pants looked better but still an alteration to the pattern was needed before any new pants were cut out.

So I've been working with McCalls 5537 http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5537.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=3 and trying to refine the fit. I disassembled a pair of the TNT pants that had been damaged by a bike chain some years ago.

The Palmer/Pletsch instructions have been very helpful and I have also used the Zapp Method http://www.amazon.com/Zapp-Method-Couture-Sewing-Garments/dp/B002PJ4IU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942186&sr=8-1 as well as the http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Pants-Singer-Refernece-Library/dp/B000GZTIDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942265&sr=1-2 the Singer sewing book.

My TNT seemed to bring about a few changes in the McCalls pattern. I used the 26 and made the flat booty adjustment. There were already lines provided for this. The darts on the front were not necessary and my crotch depth was different.


Following all of these instructions, the first version that I cut out looks pretty good! I need to see if there's anything to be done about a couple wrinkles in the back, but basically I think the situation is good. And if I don't figure what to do about the wrinkles, they are so insignificant that they are not to be worried about. My theory is that this could be caused by the fact that my back crotch length was a good deal shorter than theirs. I cut for their length but seamed for mine. Opening up the seam and changing this will be my next try on how to fix those wrinkles.

Didn't bring my camera to Mom and Dad's house but will try to get a pic posted when I get one.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Revised Plan

Happy holidays to all!

School's been out for a week and I finally have had some consistent time to devote to my second pair of pants for the sew along. I set some pretty ambitious goals at the beginning of the month, but have since realized that I don't have it in me to see them through right now. After viewing Rachelle's comments about Simplicity 2700 and studying some reviews, I decided to tackle the fit of this pattern. I figure that if I concentrate on making this one pattern work, I can make lots of versions and then, if I wanted to, transfer any alterations to other Amazing Fit pants designs.

Yesterday, I spent the grand part of the day making muslins. The first muslin was made from a curvy 16 straight out of the envelope. The fit was so-so and prompted me to make a few alterations:
  • I removed 5 inches of length from the back in three paces (at and six inches above & below the lengthen/shorten line).
  • I made an angled scoop of the back crotch curve using Rahcelle's method and slightly lowered the crotch point.
  • I removed the same 5 inches of length from the front, except 1/2" of length was taken horizontally out of the pocket/zipper area. The pockets gaped open in the first muslin. The 1/2" reduction in length seems to have corrected this in the second muslin.
  • I didn't make any alterations to the front crotch curve.
  • I probably didn't need to do this, but I took out 1/2" length in the front yoke, pocket, and pocket lining just so that the dots and notches would match.
Overall, I think the second muslin looks really good. I didn't insert the zipper, so I'm not sure how it will affect the fit. I'll take and post some pictures soon.

Have a great day everyone!

L~

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Getting Ready for the ActiveWear Contest


I want to make something involving leggings for the activewear contest, and got on the road by making a pair from Missoni Knit. You can see the tie from the drawstring elastic, also you can see a strange shadow in the picture as if there is a tag? I don't know why it resembles a tag, weird.
Anyway, it was done on a restrictive, bottom of the line Kenmore, but I was able to get the piece together. Mel said that this pattern was okay for outerwear but Lynn and my Mom said no. So I will be wearing it as longjohns only.
I finished the top too but since this is not the Month of Tops....
Total pants made: 12

MY 3RD PAIR...3 MORE TO COME IN JANUARY...

Just how many times did I try on these pants in the construction process! I wish I had actually kept count.

Originally I committed to three pair of pants for the Month of Pants Sewalong. This my third pair. In my last post I wrote about the trials of picking loose all of the stitched and serged seams. Talk about thread everywhere! I even laid down a big beach towel to catch thread and afterward took it outside and shook it off. I think that work paid off though as you can see here in my third pair. Much, much better than pairs one and two thanks to Gwen. I have minimal wrinkling on the right side. I guess I must have marked the waistband area a little crooked on that side - thus the wrinkles there. I cut into my buttonhole at the waistband (dang), but all and all I don't think they are bad at all. Glad I finally get to say that! I have ALMOST reached total satisfaction! On my next pair I think I'll wait until I have help caulking the waist seam and I know the next pair will be even better. Having this good of result lets me know the technique really works. Sometimes even when I know the answer to fixing a problem I still can't figure out in my head exactly how it's going to work. It's always so nice when it actually works.


Wrinkling on the legs should disappear wearing real shoes

I haven't had cuffed pants in eons so I decided to add them to this pair for variety. Since the sewalong has been extended through January I plan on making 3 more pair that will, like this pair, have matching jackets eventually.

Getting there?

Progress on the pants front!



Above you can see the changes made to the back piece of the pattern.

And how the jeans pants look now:



The back after the adjustment:



What a difference! Almost no creases!

Do you think this means I now have a perfect pants pattern? Hmmm...

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

SLEEP SEWN PANTS...

WOW, there really should have been more progress on my third and final pair of pants for the Sew-A-Long. I guess there would have been if I hadn't been doing some dreaded sleep sewing that I didn't discover until last night. I've been working on fitting the crouch of the pants to eliminate front wrinkles. I'm convinced, as Gwen suggested, that the problem is caused because the front crouch area is too long. After she made this suggestion I pulled out my sewing books to get a clearer idea of how to shorten the crouch area. I should have waited until she emailed me back with her suggestion on just how to do that. I used Nancy Zieman's slide method to shorten the crouch area 1 1/2" back and front for a total of 3". Well, this resulted in the crouch being just a little too short, and a few wrinkles still spoiling the front view.

I though I could live with the "little too short crouch", but was still unsatisfied with the wrinkles. While at work yesterday, I toyed with the idea of taking everything apart in order to restitch the crouch for a little more room (that would involve removing stitched seams and SERGER stitching in the inner leg and side seams). I decided that was too much work - I'd just deal with them and use Gwen's simple solution on the next pair. I was getting ready to attach the waistband AND GUESS WHAT I DISCOVERED??? I had sleep sewn and serged the wrong side of the pants back to the right side of the pants front! They were all sewn together including the center back seam. WILL SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME THAT THEY HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE?

This fabric is a nice quality light weight wool (unlike the last pair of pants I made) both from my New York shopping trip. So rather than chunk them in the dumpster out next to the street, I felt I had to try to rectify my sleep sewn mistake. I was up until 3 A.M. picking and pulling. My plan is to attempt re-cutting the crouch area, stitch and serge them back together with the seam allowance I have left, and make Gwen's adjustment (which is tying a piece of elastic at my waist over the pants, and just pulling them up until the wrinkles disappear, and them chalking a new stitching line around my waist. (long sentence, but I had to get that in there). Additionally, adding the seam allowance before stitching.

Gwen says she got this tip from Pants for Real People. I've started to buy that book before, but kept stalling. I went to two stores looking for it yesterday, and of course I couldn't find it. I'll get it from Amazon as soon as I can because I do need. THANKS GWEN! Now it's on with the show, I'll let you know how everything turns out...

Monday, December 21, 2009

Creases solution

Getting back to the brown trousers...yes, the creases bothered me. So I thought about them, wore the pants, looked, pulled, pinched, and - aha! There is too much fabric there! Oh, my derriere is rather flat, let's admit and face it.


See? Already looking better.

Well, it's not perfect since I pinned myself, but at least now I know what to do to alter the paper pattern. There are two great tutorials for flat seat adjustment here (Ann Rowley) and here (Debbie Cook) for removing excess fabric from the back legs.

Ciao!

Barbara

Friday, December 18, 2009

Kwik Sew 3315 - 1st Pair of the Month



I have completed my first pair of pants for the Month of Pants sew-a-long. I used Kwik Sew 3315 and it worked out nicely with my choice of fabric. I think I could have gone down to the small size, since it runs a bit big, but still find it comfy.



You can find my blog post here.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

MONTH OF PANTS #2

I decided to take the slightly twisted waistband off completely and re-construct it so I would be happier with the finished product. Then while sewing sleep (you know what I mean), I accidentally cut the the length too short. I attached some lace hem tape and turned up a faux hem to rectify that problem. Instead of hand stitching I used black fusible hem tape. I knew I wouldn't be able to hand stitch the hem with the dreadful pick marks - which I hate by the way.

I've got a few wrinkles across the front that I can't explain.




I plan to start another pair tomorrow to meet my commitment of 3 pair this month...

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

MOP No1 - Brown trousers

Finished! But, ahem, the muslin looked better. Must be the different fabric. This one is a bit stretchy, unlike the muslin, and it pulls in every direction.



Something going on with the crotch? What to do with that? Any ideas?



This fabric has a different (heavier) fall.



We shall see how the fabric behaves after some wearing. Right now I'm pleased and happy with them. Soo comfortable!



I think they look quite good, don't they?

I have a dark blue denim with no stretch to cut next. Should I use this pattern again to see the difference? Because I like it. A lot...! :-))

Ciao!

Barbara


Final charity pants







All of the pants I made were in one of these two styles. I hadn't been posting any pictures of them but since Faye asked me, here goes: Not sure how to rotate them, but I'll come back later to try again.
Total pants made: 11






Tuesday, December 15, 2009

I MUST HAVE MISSED SOMETHING...

I just read in a post that the Month of Pants has been extended another month. IS THIS TRUE?, IF SO...GOOD!, because I'm actually behind with my second pair. I must have missed the post extending the sew-a-long. I worked on then a little last night - should have just gone to bed instead. My waistband is slightly twisted???, and I accidentally cut the length off a little too short. I started removing the waistband last night, and I think the length thing is salvageable if I do a false hem using hem tape. Moral of the story, don't try to sew when you are tired! I am going to work on the waistband just a little tonight to straighten it out or replace it entirely. I'll get them finished before the week is over.

Smoking Needles is on to something with her information on pants crouch adjustments to fit bottoms that are curvy.

Finally the second muslin

Much better this time and no creases in the front. I just had to take the center back in a bit. I'm cutting the fashion fabric now, I'm so behind with all this! Hope to finish the pants tomorrow.






I'm Almost Ready

We're halfway through the month and you guys are smoking! I'm glad this sewalong has been extended to two months. I am going to start on the Hotpatterns Marrakesh Pants as soon as I finish making some warm hoodies for myself. I also just bought the Simplicity amazing fit pants pattern and I think that is next in the rotation. As I was studying the pattern, I came to the same realization as KMQ, I have to make the back flat, flat, flat as all my junk is under the hood (so to speak). My issue is that my waist is either equal to or bigger than my hips and that may get on my nerves. According to the Body Shape Bible, I'm a goblet.

Lots of Progress this Weekend

Kwik Sew 3384: I am almost done with this first pair of pants. I just need to attach the yoke and finish the hem.

Yet another pair of Vogue 8157: This pattern was my TNT pants pattern, but I recently realized that the fit needed work. I cut the 2" back crotch wedge down to 1" and lengthened the crotch point by 1", tapering to nothing just above the knee. I also added about 1/2" to the front crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee. I cut out the fashion fabric, and inserted the zipper.

Simplicity 4695: I made up the muslin this weekend as well. Here are a couple of pictures:



Some thoughts...
  • The front fly area needs to be shortened about an inch. The pants are supposed to be worn 1.5" below the waist. For me, this means the fly is too long and creates an unsightly pouch.
  • The back crotch length is a bit too short. When I sit, the pants pull down at the back. Melody suggested that I widen the yoke.
  • The back has some wrinkles pointing to the inseam. I think I need about 1/2" in that area.
  • The line drawing shows three buttons just below the knee, ending in a split to the hem. Melody and I both agreed that the shorter split is not a good look. What do you all think about the longer split? No split?
I sewed a gently modified16. Several months ago, I made the alterations to this pattern by matching the front and back crotch curves of V8157 to this pattern. It appears as if I lengthened the back curve by about 1/2" and raised the front crotch point about 1 1/4". Now realizing that the fit of the Vogue pants isn't great, I wonder how the changes I made have affected the fit here. What do you think?


McCall's 3935: I have pictures of the muslin. There were many, many alterations to this one, boy.



Alterations...
  • I shortened the overall length six inches. Honestly, who were these pants designed for, Shaquille O'Neal? I know I'm short and all, but damn!
  • I shortened the front fly area 3/4" and the front crotch curve 1/2". I added 1/2" to the front crotch point, tapering to nothing at the knee to accommodate full inner thighs.
  • I lengthened the back crotch curve 1" and added 1" to the back crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee.
  • I removed 1/2" of width from waist to hem from the back so that the leg fullness isn't too overwhelming. I made the same alteration on the back waistband piece. Should I do the same on the front?
Whew! School is almost out for break. Hopefully, I can get at least these four pairs finished before the end of the month.

L

Just imagine

I don't want to seem like a broken record but I am so excited about my latest discovery. I know someone will come along and say how they've "been doing it for years." I beg to differ and if so...why in the heck didn't they tell me? I was sitting here looking at my illustration and thought "just imagine" View A. The center back seam is nearly straight. To fit a more curvy figure (aka junk in the trunk) the CB seam has to bend around your curves. Unless you are using an extremely stretchy fabric, which you probably wouldn't be in slacks, it would be like trying to shape a sheet of newspaper over your rear. Sure it might "fit", but what ever wrinkling issues, smiles, pulls etc. you are having...nothing would change and might even be worse. I will say that if you try this alteration, add 1" incase seams because as you scoop the pattern out you may lose fabric over your tummy or fuller front thighs

Monday, December 14, 2009

Another pair of S2860


Faye asked what I meant about "scooping out" the back crotch curve. The key is the angle about the scoop. It's the only change I hadn't tried before and look at the incredible fit I got. I tried it on a pair I made previously and it made an incredible difference.


Yesterday I started another of slacks using S2860. I finished them up today and although I got the same great fit as the last pair, I don't like them as much. I needed a pair of solid black slacks and didn't have enough of anything in my stash. I picked up some polyester crepe from JoAnn's and quite frankly, I'm not in love with them. The fabric reminds me of plastic! I might post a picture tomorrow. In the meantime, I trimmed S2700. I found some kind of cotton blend in my stash that I plan on using. I compared the crotch curve to 2860 and altered it accordingly. Hopefully I'll get a chance to cut the fabric tomorrow and maybe started sewing Wednesday after work.

KMQ

Introduction - Fabric for Pants Cutout

Hello,

I just got accepted into the Month of Pants. I saw this on Faye's blog and knew I wanted in, too! For December, I have managed two shirts and one dress, so I'm ready to jump into pants making. I actually went on a small fabric shopping spree earlier this month and purchased enough material for 7 or more pairs! lol. Now is the time to make them. Last night I cut out my size for the Kwik Sew 3315 along with the fabric (stretch courderoy). This is my first time using a Kwik Sew pattern even though I have 2 older patterns of theirs in my stash already. Tonight - I sew!

http://knitters-delight.blogspot.com

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Machine is humming

I've finished the pajamas for yet another family, the Salvation Army family, and two other pairs, one for family 1 and another for family 2.

Total pants completed: 7

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Buzzkill? What about Fabrickill?

In Faye's latest post, she stated that she contemplated scrapping the project due to the fabric choice. I TOTALLY get it! This just happened to me on my first pair of pants for the sew along. The muslin looked good and I had all the supplies. As soon as I started serging the edges, I knew I wasn't going to finish the pants. The material was just too lightweight for this time of year. I don't quite know how I didn't notice it until now. I was instantly uninspired. Fortunately, my fabric stash provided me with other options and I am back on a roll again. I managed to cut out two pairs of pants and insert the fly-front zipper on one. I hope to finish them by the end of the week.

What about you? What do you do when this happens?

L~

ONE DOWN - TWO TO GO...

I committed to making three pair of pants for the sew-a-long. Here are my first pair. I teetered back and forth when making these pants. In the middle of the construction process I was trying to decide whether to ditch the project or continue it through to the end. IT WAS THE FABRIC CHOICE, that made me teeter. It is a salt and pepper print on I don't know what kind of fabric. When I purchased it, I thought it would make a really nice matching jacket and pants. It was at such a reasonable price that I estimated the yardage to make the matching pair. I went ahead and made the pants because I had committed to the sew-a-long, but I don't think a jacket is going to materialize from this fabric. I think the pants are a good fit and I will be wearing them. I will be using this pattern again on my next pair.



Friday, December 11, 2009

Three Pairs in 12 Days

I'm on a roll ladies. I made Simplicity 2860 last night. Marketed as Amazing Fit, they are. The only adjustment I needed to make was to scoop out the back crotch curve.




At the first of the month I made Simplicity 3756. I especially liked the pocket detail but not the super high waist.





My goal is to make two more pairs by the end of the month. Wish me luck.