The Month (or Two) of Pants

Better late than never?

2010-03-28T15:44:00.002-04:00

I finally finished the pants that I wanted to make in December... I thought that joining this sewing group would give me a good push to actually make the pants but I spent most of the two months of pants making muslins! Thanks for the inspiration. :) Thanks to Barbara, I learned how to recognize when I need a flat seat alteration. And thanks to unpredictable New England weather, I got to wear my new lined wool pants last week because it was cold and snowy enough to do so!

These are Burda Magazine's 07-2009-102. The left pair and center pair are gray stretch wool, and the right pair is black stretch wool that looks and behaves like a doubleknit.

Sewing Along

2010-02-04T21:30:00.002-05:00

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to take a moment to thank you all for participating (either by sewing or following) in the sew along. It's wonderful to have people share in this adventure and I am glad that you chose to join. I hope that everyone managed to make progress on sewing some pants. I managed to finish only two pair of pants: KS 3384 and S2860. I made three additional pairs, but they were all wadders and will be donated.

If you would like to continue posting updates to this blog, please feel free to do so. I will probably change the name so that sounds less binding. =)

I enjoyed reading all of our your posts! Thank you again for participating.

Be well,

L~

Finished on January 30th

2010-02-02T00:06:00.000-05:00

As I mentioned before, I had committed to making three more pairs of pants in January for the Pants Challenge. Well, I only got one pair finished, that's sewing life for you. I finished the wool blend tweed pair last night after a little tweaking, serging each seam, lining, hemming and doing the buttonholes. It was a slow process for some reason, but I am very satisfied with the pants, fit and all. I ended up with only a minute amount of wrinkling on the left side. The pants feel really good wearing and sitting and the lining makes for ease in pulling them on. This is officially my TNT pants pattern now. Although I really do not mine all of my pants being the same style, I think I will give Simplicity 2700 another go just to try and conquer the contoured waistband. (I do hate for something to lick me.)

I took a picture of my hem showing my hem tape. My friend asked me why I use it. I know that it's not absolutely necessary, but I after I've made something that I think is special I like to add this little touch. Yes, nobody knows it's there except me, but that just adds to the specialness - you know what I mean I'm sure.

Burda 1/2006-108

2010-01-31T07:39:00.005-05:00

Woohoo! I made it! Today is the last day of the month and I finished the wearable muslin I intended to.
No seam was serged to make it quicker.
I used half of a duvet cover to make the pants.

It is obvious I should have made the flat bottom alteration. Now I know I need to do that right away. Should I add the back pockets?
I like the pattern and think I'm going to wear these pants a lot when it gets warmer.

I am so glad I took this challenge! I learned things and achieved a certain degreee of perfection in pants making (to be improved some more). The major breakthrough was realizing what form flatters my shape, and also how to resolve the wrinkles in the back.
Thank you for the oportunity to be here and your suggestions and support!

Ciao!

Barbara

S2860: Version 1

2010-01-24T09:18:00.004-05:00

I finished the first pair of Simplicity 2860. My thoughts? Meh. I cut and sewed a straight 16 curvy. The legs were way too full and I had a lot of bunching at the front crotch. In the end, I ended up removing the fullness by taking larger seam allowances on both the in and out seams. Here is the result:

I think they're wearable, but I still need to do more work. The fabric is a nicely weighted wool blend. I think the weight of the fabric helps to hide the flaws in fitting.

Currently, I am working on another pair of pants from this pattern. This time, I am using a stretch suiting and will not use such large seam allowances.

L~

Jeans muslin Burda 12/98-121

2010-01-20T04:37:00.006-05:00

Finally a new muslin! I liked the picture but the muslin looks very different on me. Ugh, that's exactly the thing I should avoid - narrow legs. I get accented saddlebags in these. There is a lot to do to fix the pattern.

The pants were too short so I added e few centimeters. I should have done it proportionally across the whole leg. The result is the wrong placement of the knee. That should be changed, and olso the lower leg width. Maybe I should start adding width a bit above the knee to get a nicer line?

The back should be taken in a lot. Then, I don't know if to lower the front or add 1,5 cm to the back to even them before I add the waistband. What do you think? Also, the back pockets should be placed lower.

And, of course, there is also the need for a flat bottom alteration.
So, I don't know if I'm going to make it by the end of the month. Will try, though.
I also cut another lounge pants muslin and think I'm going to sew that first.
Until then I wish you happy sewing!

Ciao!
Barbara

MOP #2

2010-01-16T04:06:00.000-05:00

Here is my second pant for the sew-along, I used the same Kwiksew pattern but with little modification. I added 5/8" to the sides, used a stretchy fabric and viola... got the right fit. I really love theseversion better than the first one, very comfortable and fits perfectly ....Here are some pixs..Please check out my blog for more pictures....

With simplicity 4079 vest

Wish you all a lovely weekend

Aminat

S2860 Update

2010-01-10T10:52:00.003-05:00

I tried Betzina's method on the fly front zipper yesterday and whoa! Whoever approved the method written by Simplicity must be on something because what they suggest is just crazy. I peeked at some RTW fly fronts and nothing looks this complicated. To add insult to injury, there are 10 steps to completing the fly-front using Simplicity's instructions. 10 full steps of nothing but crazy. Um, no.

I started sewing 2860 yesterday. My friends Therisa and Melody helped me with the fit. So far, everything looks okay except an area in the front. All my pants pooch out below the zipper, giving me a...package. Not cute. Therisa and Melody both suggested that I raise the center front considerably, so that's what I will try.

Now that work has resumed, I won't get as much sewing done as I'd like. Hopefully I will make some headway near the end of the week. If I can get these to fit, I want to get two more pair finished before the end of the month.

L~

Warm pants

2010-01-10T04:56:00.007-05:00

The thing that amazes me the most is how every fabric behaves differently. This is the fifth or sixth time I use this pattern, and with all the alterations and fixing there are always new creases!
What to do, what to do?
P.S.
Stay tuned, details coming up!

Ciao!

Barbara

Technically it's a pair of pants

2010-01-08T17:07:00.002-05:00

Hello! I hope your holidays were great! Now it's time to get busy again, right?

Ta-da! The first project of the year 2010. Wacky shorts. I used a remnant of cotton I was tired to see inside the closet and the same pants pattern as before. This time I fixed the crotch.

Hehe, you know, there's a lot of snow outside... so I bought some wool to make a warmer pair of perfect pants! After the shorts. It figures. :-)
See you very soon!

Ciao!

Barbara

S2860 - Work in Progress

2010-01-07T00:14:00.005-05:00

Hello! My plans for sewing up a storm during the week I was off for the holidays were unfortunately not realized. I did get two major things done though.
--First - I made a muslin for Simplicity 2860. It fit pretty well right out of the envelope!

--Second - I spent a priceless day getting fitting help from Sherrill Miller Spending time with someone who really knows what they're doing was eye-opening. I still have so much to learn, but in just a few hours I learned stuff that would have taken me so much longer to figure out. For one thing, Aminat had suggested that I add a wedge to my pants back pattern to accommodate all my extra "good stuff". I couldn't quite visualize how this would affect the fit until Sherrill actually slashed the pants while they were on me and I saw the wedge come to life! A light bulb moment for sure!

I didn't have the foresight to take a photo of the muslin on me before it was slashed, so no pic of that, sorry. We determined that I need about 7/8 in. added to the center back crotch via the wedge, and I will also be adding 1/2 to the top of both the front and back so it sits a little higher.

I have altered my pattern and plan to make a pair of shorts first. I will also be using Sandra Betzina's method for the fly front zipper. I tried using the steps in the pattern instructions and ended up with this on my muslin. Even though I wasn't being too careful because it is a muslin, the results and (confusing to me) steps are not acceptable.

So I created a sample using my fashion fabric and Sandra Betzina's instructions and ended up with this. Much better.I hope to finish these shorts this weekend. Then on to a pair of pants and hopefully some trouser jeans after that.

How is Everyone?

2010-01-06T18:44:00.003-05:00

Merry New Year, everyone. I hope you all had wonderful holidays.

How is everyone coming along with their pants? I managed to finish S2700 and have cut out another pair. I got stalled on the zipper because the instructions are unnecessarily tedious. I also cut out S2860 (another amazing fit pattern) and made some adjustments (similar to S2700). I didn't make a muslin, so hopefully things will work out well.

Share your updates.

L

Update: Simplicity 2700

2009-12-31T21:45:00.005-05:00

I finally have pictures of both the muslin and garment (near completion). There are some wrinkles in the front of the garment that I didn't see in the muslin. Any ideas?

Muslin Front

Garment Front
Muslin Back

Garment Back

Right Side

(Sorry for the photo quality. I have a love-hate relationship with Photoshop.)

MOT #1

2009-12-31T15:56:00.000-05:00

My first pair of pant for the MOP sew along...I used Kwiksew 3625.

Please check my blog for the complete review of the pattern. The pant is a good fit except for the tightness around the hips and the thigh. I will adjust the fit on my next pair and see how it goes .

Here are some pictures...

If you look at the thigh very well , you can see what am talking about...Frustrating

More room here for sure....

You all have a wonderful holiday, and wish you all the best in the New year.....

More pants - easy

2009-12-29T14:26:00.002-05:00

Some of y'all know that I have been working on some boxers to give to my friend. It's been, what, a year since I started them. But they have two legs and a crotch curve, so three at least have been finished. Dad is holding them up on the outside of his clothes. I thought I had brought four with me to be finished but I can only find three.

Also, when Mom saw all of the fabric I'd bought on this trip, she asked for a pair of pajama bottoms. I made two pair of pj bottoms for her. also added some pics to the TNT for her, and am about to cut a pair of dressy pants for myself (evening pants) on the dining room table.

Total pants completed: 17?

FO - Butterick 4995

2009-12-28T15:30:00.004-05:00

I completed my second pair of pants for the SAL. Nope, these are not the faux leather pants I started, but I really love them. I whipped these up over the holiday and I must say, I am feeling them. lol.

I used Butterick 4995 pattern in a size 12. Other than reducing the hem allowance to keep them from being too short, this worked straight from the pattern for me. I did version B. This was the reason for adding this to my pattern stash a year ago. I am so glad I finally got around to making it.

Click Here for the blog post on this project, along with the top.

Fixing the TNT

2009-12-27T14:27:00.003-05:00

I decided to get to work on fixing the TNT pants. You saw how unpleasant they looked before. Various pairs of the same pants looked better but still an alteration to the pattern was needed before any new pants were cut out.

So I've been working with McCalls 5537 http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5537.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=3 and trying to refine the fit. I disassembled a pair of the TNT pants that had been damaged by a bike chain some years ago.

The Palmer/Pletsch instructions have been very helpful and I have also used the Zapp Method http://www.amazon.com/Zapp-Method-Couture-Sewing-Garments/dp/B002PJ4IU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942186&sr=8-1 as well as the http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Pants-Singer-Refernece-Library/dp/B000GZTIDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1261942265&sr=1-2 the Singer sewing book.

My TNT seemed to bring about a few changes in the McCalls pattern. I used the 26 and made the flat booty adjustment. There were already lines provided for this. The darts on the front were not necessary and my crotch depth was different.

Following all of these instructions, the first version that I cut out looks pretty good! I need to see if there's anything to be done about a couple wrinkles in the back, but basically I think the situation is good. And if I don't figure what to do about the wrinkles, they are so insignificant that they are not to be worried about. My theory is that this could be caused by the fact that my back crotch length was a good deal shorter than theirs. I cut for their length but seamed for mine. Opening up the seam and changing this will be my next try on how to fix those wrinkles.

Didn't bring my camera to Mom and Dad's house but will try to get a pic posted when I get one.

Revised Plan

2009-12-25T09:06:00.005-05:00

Happy holidays to all!

School's been out for a week and I finally have had some consistent time to devote to my second pair of pants for the sew along. I set some pretty ambitious goals at the beginning of the month, but have since realized that I don't have it in me to see them through right now. After viewing Rachelle's comments about Simplicity 2700 and studying some reviews, I decided to tackle the fit of this pattern. I figure that if I concentrate on making this one pattern work, I can make lots of versions and then, if I wanted to, transfer any alterations to other Amazing Fit pants designs.

Yesterday, I spent the grand part of the day making muslins. The first muslin was made from a curvy 16 straight out of the envelope. The fit was so-so and prompted me to make a few alterations:

I removed 5 inches of length from the back in three paces (at and six inches above & below the lengthen/shorten line).
I made an angled scoop of the back crotch curve using Rahcelle's method and slightly lowered the crotch point.
I removed the same 5 inches of length from the front, except 1/2" of length was taken horizontally out of the pocket/zipper area. The pockets gaped open in the first muslin. The 1/2" reduction in length seems to have corrected this in the second muslin.
I didn't make any alterations to the front crotch curve.
I probably didn't need to do this, but I took out 1/2" length in the front yoke, pocket, and pocket lining just so that the dots and notches would match.

Overall, I think the second muslin looks really good. I didn't insert the zipper, so I'm not sure how it will affect the fit. I'll take and post some pictures soon.

Have a great day everyone!

L~

Getting Ready for the ActiveWear Contest

2009-12-23T23:07:00.003-05:00

I want to make something involving leggings for the activewear contest, and got on the road by making a pair from Missoni Knit. You can see the tie from the drawstring elastic, also you can see a strange shadow in the picture as if there is a tag? I don't know why it resembles a tag, weird.

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=46413

Anyway, it was done on a restrictive, bottom of the line Kenmore, but I was able to get the piece together. Mel said that this pattern was okay for outerwear but Lynn and my Mom said no. So I will be wearing it as longjohns only.

I finished the top too but since this is not the Month of Tops....

Total pants made: 12

MY 3RD PAIR...3 MORE TO COME IN JANUARY...

2009-12-23T12:41:00.002-05:00

Just how many times did I try on these pants in the construction process! I wish I had actually kept count.

Originally I committed to three pair of pants for the Month of Pants Sewalong. This my third pair. In my last post I wrote about the trials of picking loose all of the stitched and serged seams. Talk about thread everywhere! I even laid down a big beach towel to catch thread and afterward took it outside and shook it off. I think that work paid off though as you can see here in my third pair. Much, much better than pairs one and two thanks to Gwen. I have minimal wrinkling on the right side. I guess I must have marked the waistband area a little crooked on that side - thus the wrinkles there. I cut into my buttonhole at the waistband (dang), but all and all I don't think they are bad at all. Glad I finally get to say that! I have ALMOST reached total satisfaction! On my next pair I think I'll wait until I have help caulking the waist seam and I know the next pair will be even better. Having this good of result lets me know the technique really works. Sometimes even when I know the answer to fixing a problem I still can't figure out in my head exactly how it's going to work. It's always so nice when it actually works.

Wrinkling on the legs should disappear wearing real shoes

I haven't had cuffed pants in eons so I decided to add them to this pair for variety. Since the sewalong has been extended through January I plan on making 3 more pair that will, like this pair, have matching jackets eventually.

Getting there?

2009-12-23T08:57:00.005-05:00

Progress on the pants front!

Above you can see the changes made to the back piece of the pattern.

And how the jeans pants look now:

The back after the adjustment:

What a difference! Almost no creases!

Do you think this means I now have a perfect pants pattern? Hmmm...

SLEEP SEWN PANTS...

2009-12-22T12:11:00.000-05:00

WOW, there really should have been more progress on my third and final pair of pants for the Sew-A-Long. I guess there would have been if I hadn't been doing some dreaded sleep sewing that I didn't discover until last night. I've been working on fitting the crouch of the pants to eliminate front wrinkles. I'm convinced, as Gwen suggested, that the problem is caused because the front crouch area is too long. After she made this suggestion I pulled out my sewing books to get a clearer idea of how to shorten the crouch area. I should have waited until she emailed me back with her suggestion on just how to do that. I used Nancy Zieman's slide method to shorten the crouch area 1 1/2" back and front for a total of 3". Well, this resulted in the crouch being just a little too short, and a few wrinkles still spoiling the front view.

I though I could live with the "little too short crouch", but was still unsatisfied with the wrinkles. While at work yesterday, I toyed with the idea of taking everything apart in order to restitch the crouch for a little more room (that would involve removing stitched seams and SERGER stitching in the inner leg and side seams). I decided that was too much work - I'd just deal with them and use Gwen's simple solution on the next pair. I was getting ready to attach the waistband AND GUESS WHAT I DISCOVERED??? I had sleep sewn and serged the wrong side of the pants back to the right side of the pants front! They were all sewn together including the center back seam. WILL SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME THAT THEY HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE?

This fabric is a nice quality light weight wool (unlike the last pair of pants I made) both from my New York shopping trip. So rather than chunk them in the dumpster out next to the street, I felt I had to try to rectify my sleep sewn mistake. I was up until 3 A.M. picking and pulling. My plan is to attempt re-cutting the crouch area, stitch and serge them back together with the seam allowance I have left, and make Gwen's adjustment (which is tying a piece of elastic at my waist over the pants, and just pulling them up until the wrinkles disappear, and them chalking a new stitching line around my waist. (long sentence, but I had to get that in there). Additionally, adding the seam allowance before stitching.

Gwen says she got this tip from Pants for Real People. I've started to buy that book before, but kept stalling. I went to two stores looking for it yesterday, and of course I couldn't find it. I'll get it from Amazon as soon as I can because I do need. THANKS GWEN! Now it's on with the show, I'll let you know how everything turns out...

Creases solution

2009-12-21T11:31:00.003-05:00

Getting back to the brown trousers...yes, the creases bothered me. So I thought about them, wore the pants, looked, pulled, pinched, and - aha! There is too much fabric there! Oh, my derriere is rather flat, let's admit and face it.

See? Already looking better.

Well, it's not perfect since I pinned myself, but at least now I know what to do to alter the paper pattern. There are two great tutorials for flat seat adjustment here (Ann Rowley) and here (Debbie Cook) for removing excess fabric from the back legs.

Ciao!

Barbara

Kwik Sew 3315 - 1st Pair of the Month

2009-12-18T07:29:00.000-05:00

I have completed my first pair of pants for the Month of Pants sew-a-long. I used Kwik Sew 3315 and it worked out nicely with my choice of fabric. I think I could have gone down to the small size, since it runs a bit big, but still find it comfy.

You can find my blog post here.

MONTH OF PANTS #2

2009-12-17T20:48:00.001-05:00

I decided to take the slightly twisted waistband off completely and re-construct it so I would be happier with the finished product. Then while sewing sleep (you know what I mean), I accidentally cut the the length too short. I attached some lace hem tape and turned up a faux hem to rectify that problem. Instead of hand stitching I used black fusible hem tape. I knew I wouldn't be able to hand stitch the hem with the dreadful pick marks - which I hate by the way.

I've got a few wrinkles across the front that I can't explain.

I plan to start another pair tomorrow to meet my commitment of 3 pair this month...

MOP No1 - Brown trousers

2009-12-16T16:54:00.005-05:00

Finished! But, ahem, the muslin looked better. Must be the different fabric. This one is a bit stretchy, unlike the muslin, and it pulls in every direction.

Something going on with the crotch? What to do with that? Any ideas?

This fabric has a different (heavier) fall.

We shall see how the fabric behaves after some wearing. Right now I'm pleased and happy with them. Soo comfortable!

I think they look quite good, don't they?

I have a dark blue denim with no stretch to cut next. Should I use this pattern again to see the difference? Because I like it. A lot...! :-))

Ciao!

Barbara

Final charity pants

2009-12-16T10:28:00.003-05:00

All of the pants I made were in one of these two styles. I hadn't been posting any pictures of them but since Faye asked me, here goes: Not sure how to rotate them, but I'll come back later to try again.

Total pants made: 11

I MUST HAVE MISSED SOMETHING...

2009-12-15T22:08:00.003-05:00

I just read in a post that the Month of Pants has been extended another month. IS THIS TRUE?, IF SO...GOOD!, because I'm actually behind with my second pair. I must have missed the post extending the sew-a-long. I worked on then a little last night - should have just gone to bed instead. My waistband is slightly twisted???, and I accidentally cut the length off a little too short. I started removing the waistband last night, and I think the length thing is salvageable if I do a false hem using hem tape. Moral of the story, don't try to sew when you are tired! I am going to work on the waistband just a little tonight to straighten it out or replace it entirely. I'll get them finished before the week is over.

Smoking Needles is on to something with her information on pants crouch adjustments to fit bottoms that are curvy.

Finally the second muslin

2009-12-15T16:10:00.006-05:00

Much better this time and no creases in the front. I just had to take the center back in a bit. I'm cutting the fashion fabric now, I'm so behind with all this! Hope to finish the pants tomorrow.

I'm Almost Ready

2009-12-15T11:43:00.002-05:00

We're halfway through the month and you guys are smoking! I'm glad this sewalong has been extended to two months. I am going to start on the Hotpatterns Marrakesh Pants as soon as I finish making some warm hoodies for myself. I also just bought the Simplicity amazing fit pants pattern and I think that is next in the rotation. As I was studying the pattern, I came to the same realization as KMQ, I have to make the back flat, flat, flat as all my junk is under the hood (so to speak). My issue is that my waist is either equal to or bigger than my hips and that may get on my nerves. According to the Body Shape Bible, I'm a goblet.

Lots of Progress this Weekend

2009-12-15T09:47:00.000-05:00

Kwik Sew 3384: I am almost done with this first pair of pants. I just need to attach the yoke and finish the hem.

Yet another pair of Vogue 8157: This pattern was my TNT pants pattern, but I recently realized that the fit needed work. I cut the 2" back crotch wedge down to 1" and lengthened the crotch point by 1", tapering to nothing just above the knee. I also added about 1/2" to the front crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee. I cut out the fashion fabric, and inserted the zipper.

Simplicity 4695: I made up the muslin this weekend as well. Here are a couple of pictures:

Some thoughts...

The front fly area needs to be shortened about an inch. The pants are supposed to be worn 1.5" below the waist. For me, this means the fly is too long and creates an unsightly pouch.
The back crotch length is a bit too short. When I sit, the pants pull down at the back. Melody suggested that I widen the yoke.
The back has some wrinkles pointing to the inseam. I think I need about 1/2" in that area.
The line drawing shows three buttons just below the knee, ending in a split to the hem. Melody and I both agreed that the shorter split is not a good look. What do you all think about the longer split? No split?

I sewed a gently modified16. Several months ago, I made the alterations to this pattern by matching the front and back crotch curves of V8157 to this pattern. It appears as if I lengthened the back curve by about 1/2" and raised the front crotch point about 1 1/4". Now realizing that the fit of the Vogue pants isn't great, I wonder how the changes I made have affected the fit here. What do you think?

McCall's 3935: I have pictures of the muslin. There were many, many alterations to this one, boy.

Alterations...

I shortened the overall length six inches. Honestly, who were these pants designed for, Shaquille O'Neal? I know I'm short and all, but damn!
I shortened the front fly area 3/4" and the front crotch curve 1/2". I added 1/2" to the front crotch point, tapering to nothing at the knee to accommodate full inner thighs.
I lengthened the back crotch curve 1" and added 1" to the back crotch point, again tapering to nothing at the knee.
I removed 1/2" of width from waist to hem from the back so that the leg fullness isn't too overwhelming. I made the same alteration on the back waistband piece. Should I do the same on the front?

Whew! School is almost out for break. Hopefully, I can get at least these four pairs finished before the end of the month.

L

Just imagine

2009-12-15T09:29:00.000-05:00

I don't want to seem like a broken record but I am so excited about my latest discovery. I know someone will come along and say how they've "been doing it for years." I beg to differ and if so...why in the heck didn't they tell me? I was sitting here looking at my illustration and thought "just imagine" View A. The center back seam is nearly straight. To fit a more curvy figure (aka junk in the trunk) the CB seam has to bend around your curves. Unless you are using an extremely stretchy fabric, which you probably wouldn't be in slacks, it would be like trying to shape a sheet of newspaper over your rear. Sure it might "fit", but what ever wrinkling issues, smiles, pulls etc. you are having...nothing would change and might even be worse. I will say that if you try this alteration, add 1" incase seams because as you scoop the pattern out you may lose fabric over your tummy or fuller front thighs

Another pair of S2860

2009-12-14T20:21:00.001-05:00

Faye asked what I meant about "scooping out" the back crotch curve. The key is the angle about the scoop. It's the only change I hadn't tried before and look at the incredible fit I got. I tried it on a pair I made previously and it made an incredible difference.

Yesterday I started another of slacks using S2860. I finished them up today and although I got the same great fit as the last pair, I don't like them as much. I needed a pair of solid black slacks and didn't have enough of anything in my stash. I picked up some polyester crepe from JoAnn's and quite frankly, I'm not in love with them. The fabric reminds me of plastic! I might post a picture tomorrow. In the meantime, I trimmed S2700. I found some kind of cotton blend in my stash that I plan on using. I compared the crotch curve to 2860 and altered it accordingly. Hopefully I'll get a chance to cut the fabric tomorrow and maybe started sewing Wednesday after work.

KMQ

Introduction - Fabric for Pants Cutout

2009-12-14T17:11:00.004-05:00

Hello,

I just got accepted into the Month of Pants. I saw this on Faye's blog and knew I wanted in, too! For December, I have managed two shirts and one dress, so I'm ready to jump into pants making. I actually went on a small fabric shopping spree earlier this month and purchased enough material for 7 or more pairs! lol. Now is the time to make them. Last night I cut out my size for the Kwik Sew 3315 along with the fabric (stretch courderoy). This is my first time using a Kwik Sew pattern even though I have 2 older patterns of theirs in my stash already. Tonight - I sew!

http://knitters-delight.blogspot.com

Machine is humming

2009-12-13T19:48:00.001-05:00

I've finished the pajamas for yet another family, the Salvation Army family, and two other pairs, one for family 1 and another for family 2.

Total pants completed: 7

Buzzkill? What about Fabrickill?

2009-12-12T19:52:00.003-05:00

In Faye's latest post, she stated that she contemplated scrapping the project due to the fabric choice. I TOTALLY get it! This just happened to me on my first pair of pants for the sew along. The muslin looked good and I had all the supplies. As soon as I started serging the edges, I knew I wasn't going to finish the pants. The material was just too lightweight for this time of year. I don't quite know how I didn't notice it until now. I was instantly uninspired. Fortunately, my fabric stash provided me with other options and I am back on a roll again. I managed to cut out two pairs of pants and insert the fly-front zipper on one. I hope to finish them by the end of the week.

What about you? What do you do when this happens?

L~

ONE DOWN - TWO TO GO...

2009-12-12T15:34:00.000-05:00

I committed to making three pair of pants for the sew-a-long. Here are my first pair. I teetered back and forth when making these pants. In the middle of the construction process I was trying to decide whether to ditch the project or continue it through to the end. IT WAS THE FABRIC CHOICE, that made me teeter. It is a salt and pepper print on I don't know what kind of fabric. When I purchased it, I thought it would make a really nice matching jacket and pants. It was at such a reasonable price that I estimated the yardage to make the matching pair. I went ahead and made the pants because I had committed to the sew-a-long, but I don't think a jacket is going to materialize from this fabric. I think the pants are a good fit and I will be wearing them. I will be using this pattern again on my next pair.

Three Pairs in 12 Days

2009-12-11T22:46:00.000-05:00

I'm on a roll ladies. I made Simplicity 2860 last night. Marketed as Amazing Fit, they are. The only adjustment I needed to make was to scoop out the back crotch curve.

At the first of the month I made Simplicity 3756. I especially liked the pocket detail but not the super high waist.

My goal is to make two more pairs by the end of the month. Wish me luck.

Simplicity 3686

2009-12-10T16:04:00.000-05:00

Here's the picture I promised. It's not one of my best but with the temperature only being 17 degrees, I'm not willing to venture outside for a better shot! I'm happy with the fit of this pattern. I didn't make a muslin and while the envelope describes them as wide leg they should have said palazzo width. The finished wide is 31" so beware. I think 13 pattern pieces is kind of ridiculous for a pair of pants so I eliminated a few. It's kind of funny that the finished zipper is only about 5" long and speaking of the zipper...I didn't cut a separate fly but rather laid the fly on the front pattern piece overlapping the seams lines and cut. I didn't use the directions for inserting the zipper or the underlap. I channeled my inner Sinatra and did it my way! For the front yoke and pocket I didn't cut it out of lining fabric and eliminated the front yoke piece altogether. It took me about five hours to make these pants and that included cutting them out. Would I sew them again?? I don't know. They are very trendy and this style may not be around for long.

The first muslin

2009-12-08T09:24:00.008-05:00

Hello! Here I am finally!
I just couldn't decide which pattern to use. I found a few nice classic patterns and a few nice jeans ones. But the pattern I chose in the end is somewhere in between - casual elegance. Why not?

I couldn't find a pic online. It's the flared pants pattern from Burda Easy fashion F/S 2009 , model F.
It was a great day when I realized flared pants are the best for my body type. I don't usually make pants so I hope to make a great pair with this pattern and fabric.

A cotton-wool blend from stash. The darker side is the wrong side but I like it better. And it looks marvelous with my new flowery tops!

I made the muslin, tried it on and...boohoo - it was too small. Fortunately, I added 2 cm at the sides, just in case. After unpicking the seams and sewing again at 1 cm everything looked much better.

This means I have to trace the pattern again in a bigger size.

I don't plan to sew the muslin again. It looks good enough to me like this. What do you think? Should I be brave and cut the good fabric? :-)

Ciao!

Barbara

Plan (sort of)

2009-12-08T08:48:00.003-05:00

While working on fitting McCall's 3935, I started thinking ahead to the next pattern I wanted to sew, McCall's 5475. I figured that if I could get 3935 to fit reasonably well, then I can fit 5475 easily by comparing the two patterns and adjusting from there. So, then I started thinking that perhaps I can approach other patterns in the same way. I'll go through the motions of fitting one pants pattern from each company and if I want to make other patterns from the same company, I can adjust for fit using the first one I made. I guess this is kind of like creating a pseudo-sloper. This is going to be a LOT of work. But, in the end I hope that I'll end up with good fitting pants from each pattern company.

Here are some other patterns I would like to try:

Simplicity 2700, 3686, & 4965
Vogue 8157 (these were TNT, but fit could use some work) & 2812
Kwik Sew 2960 & 3625 (I tried this a couple of months ago; the legs were too full)
Butterick 4861

We'll see how this works. So far, I think I've made considerable progress on M3935. How that translates to fitting M5475 is another story. Pictures coming soon!

Lynn

Charity begins at home

2009-12-08T02:41:00.003-05:00

My charity pajamas are all cut out and sewn with Grandma's Kenmore. Boy, I love that machine! It makes one, straight stitch. And I thnk about Grandma teaching my aunts and my mother to use the machine. They were living in the projects and the sewing machine has a pride of place in the living room. Its wooden case was always kept dusted and polished. And they always used to keep a doily on the top of the machine.

It's been a few years since I sewed with that 1952 Kenmore, I put WD40 in the holes and it works great. According to Mom, it's never been in the shop. I think I'd like to keep it out and to use it more often.

In consultation with my buddy Terry, the orange trousers will be taken apart completely and rebasted before being used as a pattern. If all fits well, the pieces will be dyed black and then resewn. Terry pointed out that it is a shame to waste such beautiful fabric,

As for the charity sewing, I got another call that they need more pajamas.

2 teenage girls, both size 5 - Family 14

Total pants completed: 3

SECOND FITTING...SAME MUSLIN

2009-12-07T20:44:00.003-05:00

MY MONTH OF PANTS GOAL: I want a "GO TO TNT PANTS PATTERN". Just pull the pattern out of the envelope, lay it out on the fabric, cut, sew and wear - because you know they are going to fit.

I was torn as to whether grade this pattern down a size and make an entirely new muslin; OR do as Lynelle suggest and just take the existing muslin in 3/4" in all seams. I opted to do the latter. The pants fit/feel so much better after doing so. Not too loose, too tight.

(Yes, I'm talking on the phone. Everytime I try to fit something the phone always rings.)

I took David Coffin's pants book to read at break today. There is so much valuable construction information in his book especially on front fly zippers and pockets. I even learned a new techniques for sewing on belt loops that I think I'll use on my MOT pants. I am such a visual person and I am so glad the book came with a DVD.

Now I need to decide on the fabric to use for my first project for the Month of Pants, because I'm cutting them out tonight.

T n Not So T

2009-12-06T15:44:00.003-05:00

I tried on a pair of my TNT lined slacks today, to prepare to make a new pair. The butt and waist are fine, but the stomach is tight and the upper thighs are also tight. I heard that fat moves around and that this is why one has to measure each year. I could wear these pants, but there's no point in making pants that are already too tight.

I see that I left more than one inch seam allowances on the TNT, so I'll see how I feel about them when they've been widened a little in the problem location.

This pair is orange, super gabardine, http://www.fishmansfabrics.com/wool_gab1_01.htm

and I really loved them. They were damaged by Lufthansa's leaving a suitcase in the rain and then letting it mold for a week - drycleaning could not get the stains out. Lufthansa reimbursed me for the damaged fabric for these pants and whatever else got damaged, but they did not reimburse me for the labor. Self-drafted pattern, too. I have a few other pairs which, again, I have been wearing, but are a little tight in the tummy. Probably all need to be let out a little.

Also, I starched and pressed the teal silk charmeuse. I didn't used to starch charmeuse before cutting, but someone on PR suggested it, and it really does make the laying out and cutting easier.

Pants Muslin

2009-12-06T05:23:00.000-05:00

ANYTIME I venture into experimenting with a new pant pattern I have to make a muslin. I guess gone is the day when I can just look at a pattern's size and say "yes, this will work". That being said, I continue my search of the pant pattern that requires very few alterations. Since I have joined the new Month of Pants sew-a-long I've decided to give this slightly vintage Simplicity pattern a try. What constitutes Vintage anyway? I think I like this pattern because it has so few pieces (6 total), opposed to the last pants pattern I used that had almost 5 pieces just for the pockets. For me that just was not practical. I need as few pieces as possible, minimal alterations and a great fit. Is that too much to ask for???

I cut the pattern straight out of the envelope with only one change - increased the back seam allowance 1". I got that idea from using Simplicity 2700. I used a 5/8" seam when sewing it, so I guess that means that I added 1" to the back seam - right (There goes that math again!); baby's got back you know! This pattern was printed in 1978, and although it's multi-sized (included 3 sizes) there was no change or difference in the crouch curve printed on the pattern. I thought this was strange, but if it works - great.

I went ahead and put the zipper in this muslin and even pressed it after getting it together to get a better idea of how the pants would look.

I do hate trying to take pictures of myself, but hopefully they will help me determine if this pattern is a go or not by allowing me to look at different views of the fit. The pictures are awful but here goes.

All in all I think the fit is pretty good. I'm going to try it on again and sit around in it for a while to get more of a feel for them. I might take them in just a tad in the side and back seams. What do you think???????????? Yes or No? I will be pulling that David Coffin Pants book off the shelf for this.

Hello Everyone!

2009-12-05T14:16:00.002-05:00

I'm in!! The Month of Tops was so much fun! I'm glad to be a part of Month of Pants. I need pants so bad! It has gotten so cold in the last few days here. Will have to choose my patterns and I have plenty of fabric choices. Will post that soon.

Hello!

2009-12-05T12:44:00.002-05:00

I joined too!
But...I have no plan yet. Hmmm, jeans maybe?
Let's find some nice patterns now...

Ciao!
Barbara

Got my shears going!

2009-12-05T10:18:00.004-05:00

I have gotten involved with some charity pajamas for this season, through the Farmington Youth Assistance. They're just pajama bottoms, easy to make and then to sew assembly style. For these pajamas, I always use drawstring waists to make it easier for people to individualize the fit.

Here's the plan: I believe that these are store sizes, so I will translate to sewing pattern sizes.

Junior size 12/14 petite Family 1 purple flowered fabric (cut out)

16 large, Average Family 1 Brown and light brown fabric (cut out)

2 extra large 16-18 Family 2 (cut out and waistbands fused)

Cleared off my cutting table and got cracking! But now it turns out that my sewing machine is on the blink. Took it to the shop and will use Grandma's 1952 Kenmore for the straight portions of these items. I'll be straight stitch only until Wednesday, cause I don't want to bring my 1995 Kenmore back from work where I am letting the Sewing Club use it.

Pants completed: 3

I'M IN...

2009-12-04T19:53:00.002-05:00

With all of the tops I made last month I still need pants. So I've joined Lynnell in the Month of Pants Sew-a-long. I have worked with Simplicity's 2700 several times this year trying to perfect a TNT pants pattern, and I really thought this was it. After making several pairs of pants with that pattern, I'm still not completely satisfied with the fit. I'm committing to making three pairs of pants for this sew-a-long, and will be trying this slightly vintage Simplicity pattern. I'll post my progress starting with a muslin and HOPEFULLY, these pants will fit perfectly the first time around....

First Pair: McCall's 3935

2009-12-03T20:55:00.000-05:00

This pattern has been in queue for a long time. I traced it months ago and have just now made the alterations. Here's what I've done so far:

1. The legs are SUPER long. I took out a total of six (yes, 6!) inches of length in multiple places, including one inch out of the cuff.

2. I lengthened the back crotch curve 2".

3. I shortened the front crotch curve about 0.5" and made a 0.75" fold, tapering to nothing, in the fly area.

Since these are wide-legged pants, I will probably have to take some width out of the back leg area. I won't do that yet until I sew the muslin. If I can get these to fit, then I'll move on to the alterations for McCall's 5475. Hopefully, I can do a rough match of the pattern pieces and not need a muslin for the second pair.

L~

2009-12-03T17:08:00.000-05:00

Hi, Everybody! I started the pants yesterday, using Ottobre Design 02-2006-13. I used the size 52 and decided to make my trial garment into pajamas for a co-worker. I used two different fabrics, and since I didn't have time to go home and get any fabric in the middle of the day, I traded some fabric from my stash for some of the fabric at school. Turned out to be a good thing because a large young man came in and needed a robe. My stash at home had a big enough piece of thick white cotton for him.

The pants fit me well, except that I am a little narrower at the waist than the pattern allows for. Easily fixable and I fixed it for the third pair. One strange thing, I didn't have to use the zipper even though there are darts at the back. Could it be because fat is malleable? It sure saves time not to have to use a zipper.....

In the pipeline: teal silk. Needs to be pressed before cutting out.

Pants completed: 3 pair.

Let's Sew Some Pants!

2009-12-03T11:25:00.000-05:00

Last month, Faye (Fayessewingadventure.blogspot.com) made an amazing fourteen (14!) tops as part of her Month of Tops Sew-a-Long (check out the tops she made as well as the dedicated blog.) I was so impressed and inspired by this remarkable sewing feat, that I asked if she would like to start a Month of Pants Sew-a-Long.

The rules are simple:

Just sew some pants! You can use patterns, self-draft, or re-fashion a pair you already have. Fly-fronts, side zipped, elastic waists, wool, linen, cotton, poolyester spandex...the possibilities are endless. It's your call. Two legs and a crotch curve are all that's required. =)

Join us!

Lynn